JG Domestic

When Jose Garces opens a new restaurant in Philly, you book a reservation with the quickness if you don’t want to be clueless at the water cooler.  On opening Friday in mid-October, I happily slid myself onto the inviting black leather cushion of a large booth near the open kitchen at JG Domestic, along with three others.

Our meal that evening was solid but not without flaws. Drinks were slow to arrive and one of the entrees showed up casually late by at least ten minutes.  In a matter of just a few weeks, however, the kinks from our first visit appeared to be worked out.  I returned last night as the guest of a media dinner invitee (full disclosure), and the pace of our meal could not have been better.

There was some overlap of items on both visits, and it was interesting to see the subtle tweaks that took place in the time between.  Cheese and charcuterie offerings were delicious on both evenings.  We saw the same cheeses from the first night on our second (portions were noticeably larger on night two).  A triple cream with truffle-specked apple compote was delicious, especially so when spread over the house made buns, hot out of the oven and served in a cast iron dish.  The prosciutto was swiftly wrapped around cheeses and croutes and savored to the fullest.  My compliments to the swine.

The wood oven flatbread, topped with chanterelles, black truffle, tangy cheddar and micro arugula, was easily one of my favorite items out of the two visits (and I claim to not like mushrooms).  The flavors were incredible.  A crab gratin, on the other hand, was a little too fishy for both me and my date.

Both visits included the heirloom potato cassoulet.  On our first trip, I thought the medley of cheddar-topped fingerlings was served over sautéed onions.  Our second batch yielded a different taste that I knew from my grandmom’s Polish cooking to be cabbage, and a check of the menu confirmed this.  I enjoyed the rustic flavors (and the varied taste from one meal to the next) but felt that the addition of andouille sausage was a bit excessive, especially because the main courses are rich in their own right.

On night one, I enjoyed the Wagyu skirt steak, served medium rare with lightly fried green chiles, blue cheese and super smoky cippolini onions.  In a conversation with one of the servers, it was revealed that some guests have complained about the cooler temperature of the dish.  I noticed this myself, but I suppose medium rare strips of steak can hardly be expected to stay piping hot for very long.  I might order this again, but if not, it will surely be because the wild boar is already on my agenda.  Served on the bone and over some downright delicious grits, with flavor-packed wilted greens and sesame glaze, the boar is a must-try.  I would urge people to order the dish sooner than later; boar is a seasonal item.

Also not to be missed at JG Domestic are the desserts, each focused on a particular flavor.  I’ve tasted the huckleberry (bright and slightly tart), the pear and the pumpkin desserts.  Quite honestly, these creations would be memorable in their own right had they not immediately been followed by the beignets.  New Orleans, eat your heart out.  JG Domestic’s version has the traditional powdered sugar-topped fried puffs served alongside a bourbon vanilla mousseline and – wait for it – Maker’s Mark butterscotch.

A NOTE ABOUT MAKER’S MARK BUTTERSCOTCH: May cause involuntary swearing (quietly, of course), speaking in tongues and offers to do unspeakable things if only your dining partner allow you that last bite of beignet to dip.  Bring a date, order the beignets, and enjoy the rest of your evening (wink).  Ask nicely and you may even score a list of ingredients that comprise this most addictive syrup.

Last but not least is the beverage program.  One of my favorite beers all year has made an appearance on the menu, Cellar Door by Stillwater Ales.  Careful; the mark-up is fierce, but you won’t find this beer in many places around town so it’s a nice indulgence.  For wine drinkers, the $8 Zinfandel is a worthy partner to rich starters and meat based entrees alike.  Cocktails are also made with seasonal ingredients, and I enjoyed the bourbon-based Adirondack and Crescent cocktails.  Both are fresh and light enough for those drinkers who are usually on the clear-liquor side of the fence.

Return visit?

Yes.  Ohhh yes.  YES!  YES!!  YES!!! 

JG Domestic
Cira Centre, Ground Floor
2929 Arch Street
Philadelphia, PA 19104
jgdomestic.com