Barbuzzo

The hype on this place is at a fever pitch, but frankly, I’m not quite convinced that I need a seat on the bandwagon.

The rustic, candlelit dining room is warm and welcoming, but the seating arrangements are entirely too cozy.  Tables are packed so tightly together that even Gumby would have to MacGyver his way into the banquette side.  I witnessed a gentleman on what was undoubtedly a first or second date, one that was meant to impress, who was squeezed so tightly into a corner that it appeared his entire right side was immobile.  But I’m sure his date was happy to be dining at the hottest restaurant in town.

My own table seemed slightly more comfortable.  My date and I arrived at the end of the dinner rush, so many of the tables around us started to clear out as our evening progressed.  Our server was pleasant and very knowledgeable about the wine list, which she helped me navigate to find a wine I enjoyed for the duration of our meal (the Verdejo – great for Sauvignon Blanc lovers).

Our first bite was a seasonal (at the time) salad special with mozzarella and a variety of tomatoes.  It was well-flavored and promising.  Next up was the salsiccia pizza, with sausage, olives and San Marzanos.  The taste was incredible, although the style was different from some of the other brick oven pizzas around town.  The crust had more of a chewy texture, but it was a fantastic pie regardless and one that I would certainly order again.  The sprigs of dried oregano and hot pepper oil served alongside were the best effort in condiments that I’ve seen in a long time.

House-made pastas left me feeling less excited.  The pacherri, with pork ragu and burrata, was a nice idea, but the noodles were too thick and detracted from the appeal of homemade pasta.  The seared gnocchi didn’t sear my memory in any way; I honestly can’t recall a thing about the dish.  A grilled bronzino was nice but nothing special.

Desserts picked up the pace just as my impressions of Barbuzzo started to flatline.  The salted caramel budino was served in a mini mason jar and consisted of three beautiful layers of chocolate crust, rich caramel and tart whipped cream.  The chocolate tasting was also presented beautifully on a small board with a map to guide our flavor journey.

Return visit?

Barbuzzo is a nice addition to the 13th Street scene, but it doesn’t get my vote for best new restaurant of the year.  I’ll return to enjoy some pizza and wine at the bar, nonetheless.

Barbuzzo
110 S. 13^th Street
Philadelphia, PA  19107
barbuzzo.com